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Siding FAQs

Is the LP SmartSide architectural series cedar shake siding primed?
Yes. It is primed on the face and edges.
Can I use a traditional transparent or semi-transparent stain on LP SmartSide products?
No. These stains are typically low in solids and provide less protection from UV and other weathering effects. There are new acrylic latex paints commercially available that can replicate the appearance of a semitransparent stain. Refer to the installation instructions for proper finishing.
Can I install LP SmartSide trim over lap siding, rather than butting to it?
Yes. Special precautions should be taken to provide proper spacing between the lap siding and the trim, as well as fastening of the trim.
Can LP SmartSide panel siding be installed horizontally or diagonally?
No. LP SmartSide panel siding is designed specifically to be installed parallel to the framing. Refer to the LP SmartSide® Precision series panel siding installation instructions.
What kind of nails do I need?
Corrosion resistant fasteners must be used to avoid rust staining and erosion of the fasteners. Please refer to the proper installation instructions and code report for the minimum size and type, as well as the fastening schedule.
If the installation is not consistent with the application instructions, will it void my warranty?
The LP SmartSide limited warranty will remain in effect with the exception that any issue caused by an installation that varies from the LP SmartSide installation instructions will not be the responsibility of LP. Refer to the installation instructions for proper installation.on the face and edges.
Can I install LP SmartSide lap vertically and cover the joint with battens?
No. LP SmartSide siding is designed for horizontal installation only. Un‐grooved LP SmartSide Precision series panel siding is available for board and batten applications. Refer to the installation instructions for proper installation.
What is the fire rating?
LP SmartSide is a class C (III) rated product when tested according to ASTM E84. All LP® SmartSide® siding can be used in a 1‐hour fire rated assembly when it is installed over 5/8 type‐X gypsum, which is consistent with other siding types such as fiber cement siding.
How do I install LP SmartSide siding over SIP or ICF assemblies?
Follow the LP SmartSide installation instructions. The SIP manufacturer will need to specify the type of corrosion resistant fastener and the fastener spacing to meet the minimum required wind‐load values. The fastener spacing must not exceed the maximum fastener spacing stated in the LP SmartSide installation instructions. If you have further questions, contact the LP Technical staff at (800) 450‐6106. Consult your local code authority to ensure compliance with the local building code.
Is it beneficial to prime the back side of the LP SmartSide siding or trim?
No. Back priming has proven to be useful to control tannin staining with some types of solid wood siding, trim, and some composite sidings. LP SmartSide products are designed to perform without back priming.
Should we caulk at the overlap of the lap siding?
No. Refer to the installation instructions for proper installation.
Can we rip lap to create a smaller size?
It may be necessary to rip the lap siding at times where the wall terminates at the soffit or around penetrations. Use special care to prime and paint any exposed wood that may result. Ripping the lap siding to make narrower lap siding is not recommended.
Can LP SmartSide trim and fascia be miter cut?
Do not miter cut the edges or ends of the trim at corners. Miter cuts or “picture framing” around door and window openings are acceptable. Butt joints are preferred but scarfed joints are permitted with LP SmartSide trim and fascia. All joints must be spaced 3/16 inch to accommodate expansion during equilibration. Refer to the installation instructions for proper installation.
Can I overlap my LP SmartSide siding more than the recommended 1”?
Yes, but the siding should not project beyond the thickness of the trim. The specified overlap and edge‐spacing of the nails in the installation instructions are minimum requirements. Refer to the installation instructions for proper installation.
Are there any special considerations when applying any panel siding to the interior of my home and is this application allowed and will my warranty be good?
Using LP SmartSide in an interior application is acceptable. Please review the material safety data sheet (MSDS) before using the product indoors
When panels are installed, is it ok to allow the panel to rest on the flashing?
No. A drainage space is required between the panel drip edge and the flashing. Refer to the installation instructions for proper installation.
Now that your fiber products have Zinc Borate, can they be used west of the Cascades?
LP SmartSide Architectural and Precision Series Siding can be used west of the Cascades. Certain LP SmartSide Foundations Series siding cannot. See the Smart Side warranty for complete details.
Are LP SmartSide products “green”?
The green attributes built into LP products today are recognized in green building certification programs around the country, most often in the “Materials & Resource Efficiency” section. LP uses 100% SFI‐certified wood – a renewable resource from small diameter, rapidly regenerating trees. LP SmartSide products are treated with environmentally friendly borates to resist rot, termites, and mold. LP SmartSide is durable and comes with a 50‐year limited warranty.
Can LP SmartSide siding be used in a one‐hour fire‐rated wall assembly?
Yes. It must be installed over 5/8‐inch type‐x gypsum the same as fiber cement siding.
Are LP SmartSide products compliant with the building code?
Yes. LP SmartSide Precision series Lap and Panel siding is covered by the ESR‐1301 code report. LP SmartSide Foundation series lap and panel siding, and architectural shake and panel meet the requirements of ANSI 135.6 and therefore satisfy the requirements of the 2006 International Building Code. Code report NER‐626 also represents the Foundation and some of the Architectural series siding products.
Can LP SmartSide siding be fastened directly to the studs?
Certain LP SmartSide products can be attached to framed walls without sheathing such as Precision series siding. Refer to the LP SmartSide installation instructions for the specific type of LP SmartSide siding you are using. Note that a code‐approved breathable water‐resistive barrier is required between the siding and the studs.
Why are the LP SmartSide code reports important?
The code reports are published by the International Code Council and demonstrate the safe use of the siding. The code reports are useful to engineers, architects, and code officials to ensure the siding is used within its design limits.
Is a house‐wrap required behind the LP SmartSide siding?
A code‐approved, breathable, water‐resistive barrier is required behind all LP SmartSide siding as per the International Building Code. Refer to the installation instructions for proper installation.
Can I install LP SmartSide siding differently than what is specified in the LP SmartSide installation instructions?
LP strongly recommends LP SmartSide siding be installed according to the installation instructions. If the siding is installed in a manner inconsistent with the instructions, the siding will continue to be warranted under the LP SmartSide limited warranty although any issue caused by the inconsistent installation will not be the responsibility of LP. Refer to the installation instructions for proper installation.
Why is it important to space LP SmartSide siding at all joints?
LP SmartSide siding will expand naturally as its moisture level balances with the surrounding environment. Spacing the joints provides the necessary room for the siding to expand. This is also an important reason to properly apply a non‐hardening caulk or sealant. Refer to the installation instructions for proper installation.
Do LP SmartSide products resist wind loads?
Yes. Refer to the LP SmartSide code reports ESR‐1301 and NER‐626.
Is LP SmartSide panel siding structurally rated?
Some LP SmartSide siding is structurally rated. Refer to the LP SmartSide code reports ESR-1301 and NER-626.

Windows FAQs

What is the origin of the vinyl window industry?
Vinyl window technology came to the United States in the late 1960’s. The original vinyl windows were developed and brought to a high level of quality in Europe in the 1950’s.
What is a vinyl window?
A vinyl window (frame) is one which is fabricated primarily from polyvinyl chloride (PVC). Vinyl windows may employ other materials for hardware and reinforcement, but the primary exposed material is PVC (vinyl).
What styles of vinyl windows are available?
Vinyl windows are available in all popular models, the most common of which are fixed (or “picture windows”), double and single hung, horizontal sliding, casement, awning, and decorative bay, bow, and garden windows. Vinyl windows can be custom made to fit any size or shape required by the architectural style, existing openings, or personal taste. Many vinyl window manufacturers also offer vinyl patio doors.
What glazing options are available with vinyl windows?
Vinyl windows are available with single glazing, and double and triple insulating glass. Additional options such as tempered, frosted, low E (emissivity), and wire glass are also available. Laminated glass is very costly but by far the strongest option, great for areas exposed to hurricanes or for properties where security is a major concern.
How will vinyl windows affect the appearance of my home?
Vinyl windows greatly improve the appearance of virtually any home. More important, vinyl windows maintain their beauty for many years with only minimum cleaning and care.
How do vinyl windows compare in price with windows made of other materials?
Vinyl windows compare very favorably in price with quality windows made of all other materials.
What other advantages do vinyl windows have over windows fabricated from other materials?
Vinyl windows have demonstrated several significant points of undisputed superiority. For example, unlike many materials, vinyl does not swell and shrink when exposed to extreme moisture conditions. Vinyl windows operate smoothly in any weather. Vinyl has intrinsically high insulating qualities when compared to other window materials. Vinyl does not rust, pit or corrode. Vinyl windows never need painting and are easily cleaned with a damp cloth and some mild detergent. Vinyl is comfortable to the touch in either sub-zero or tropical weather conditions.
How do vinyl windows compare with windows made of other materials from an operating standpoint?
Vinyl’s self-lubricating properties enhance its ability to slide. In addition, vinyl does not warp, twist, swell or otherwise distort its shape, so it remains easy to operate.
When remodeling, can I get vinyl windows to fit present openings without costly modifications?
Absolutely. Vinyl window manufacturers fabricate windows to the exact opening dimensions ordered by you or your remodeling contractor.
Can I install vinyl windows myself?
Installing vinyl windows is no more complicated than installing windows fabricated from other materials. If you are capable of installing a window made of some other material, you can install a vinyl window
How do architects regard vinyl windows?
Because of design availability, ease of operation, lasting beauty, insulating characteristics, and low maintenance, architects are increasingly specifying vinyl windows that meet the performance requirements of the American Society for Testing and Materials standard.
How do I care for my vinyl windows?
Vinyl windows never have to be painted. The color is actually part of the vinyl. If your vinyl windows have become particularly dirty, or if they are subject to stubborn grime because of local conditions, a mild non-abrasive detergent solution will clean your vinyl windows to an “as-new” condition. Normally, all that is required for thorough cleaning is a damp cloth.
How do vinyl windows stand up to extreme temperature conditions?
Marvelously well. The chemistry of vinyl, plus the manufacturing process, assures that vinyl windows will remain impervious to weather from the frigid Canadian border to the tropical Florida coast. Heat loss through windows is reduced drastically due to the natural insulating quality of vinyl and the design of vinyl components with insulating air spaces.
How do vinyl windows stand up to salt air, sea spray and other corrosive conditions?
Vinyl is not affected by corrosive conditions, making vinyl windows the choice of more and more people who live at the shore or near heavy industrial areas.
Can a builder install vinyl windows in a house which was originally designed for aluminum windows?
Yes. Vinyl is the most adaptable of all window materials. In fact, most vinyl windows installed today replace windows made from either wood, aluminum, or steel.
Who installs vinyl windows?
Most manufacturers provide installation services, as well as general contractors like Everest Siding and Windows.
How do vinyl windows resist condensation?
Windows with vinyl frames help guard against the damaging effects of window condensation because of the high insulating value of the vinyl. Double glazed windows are far more effective than single glazed windows in reducing window condensation because they tolerate higher percentages of relative indoor humidity before condensation occurs. This higher allowable humidity level reduces drying of furnishings and improves the “comfort level” of the living space.

Windows do not cause condensation. On the contrary, the right windows can be a great help in controlling and reducing it.

What causes condensation?
Condensation on windows is an alarming signal of excess humidity in a home. When water, fog or ice forms on a window, the consequences can be devastating. Peeling paint, rotting wood and rusted metal can all result from this excess humidity.

Condensation occurs on windows when warm moist air comes in contact with the colder surface of the window. Although it is natural to assume that the windows are to blame, the fact is that the windows are merely a visible sign that humidity exists in the home.

Indoor moisture is caused by a variety of factors. Common household activities such as cooking, showering, running washing machines and dishwashers — every activity that uses hot water — adds moisture to the air.

Newer homes are more often subject to condensation because they are constructed with more weather tight materials and methods than homes built before energy costs were a concern. Weather stripping, improved insulation, vapor barriers and modern construction techniques are designed to reduce air leakage. At the same time, however, these can act to seal in moisture. Unless provisions are made to allow this moisture to escape, moisture buildup can result.

Can window condensation be only temporary?
There are several instances when temporary window condensation can occur, including:

  • During showers and baths, cooking, dishwashing and other steam-producing occasions.
  • During the start of each heating season. Houses absorb moisture during humid summers. This will generally dry out after a few weeks of heating.
  • During sharp temperature changes. Sudden drops in temperature, especially during the heating season, can create temporary condensation problems.
  • During new construction or remodeling. Building materials contain a great deal of moisture. When the heat is turned on, this moisture will flow into the air inside the home. It usually will disappear after the first heating season.
What can be done to reduce condensation?
There are many simple steps that can be taken to reduce the humidity level in the home:

  • Vent clothes dryers, gas burners, etc. to the outdoors.
  • Check that all ventilation equipment is adjusted properly.
  • Use kitchen and bathroom exhaust fans.
  • Air out the kitchen, bathroom and laundry room during and after use by opening a window for a few minutes.
  • Make sure attic louvers remain open all year round and that crawl spaces are properly ventilated.
  • Consult a local heating and ventilation contractor to help determine whether ventilation is adequate and whether it can be improved.
  • Insure humidifiers are correctly set according to the outside temperatur

Roofing FAQs

How can a homeowner recognize when a roof system has problems?
All too often, roof system problems are discovered after leaking or some other serious damage occurs. Periodic (twice-a-year) inspections often can uncover cracked, warped or missing shingles; loose seams and deteriorated flashings; excessive surface granules accumulating in the gutters or downspouts; and other visible signs of roof system problems. Indoors, look for cracked paint, discolored plasterboard and peeling wallpaper as signs of damaged roof areas.
What are my options if I decide to reroof?
You have two basic options: You can choose a complete replacement of the roof system, involving a tear-off of your existing roof system, or cover the existing roof system, involving only the installation of a new roof system. If you’ve already had one re-cover installed on your original roof system, check with a professional roofing contractor. In many instances, building code requirements allow no more than one roof system re-cover before a complete replacement is necessary
My roof leaks. Do I need to have it replaced completely?
Not necessarily. Leaks can result from flashings that have come loose or a section of the roof system being damaged. A complete roof system failure, however, generally is irreversible and a result of improper installation, choice of materials or the roof system installation is inappropriate for the home or building.
Can I do the work myself?
Most work should not be done by yourself. Professional roofing contractors are trained to safely and efficiently repair or replace roof systems. You can damage your roof system by using improper roofing techniques and severely injure yourself by falling off or through the roof.

Maintenance performed by home and building owners should be confined to inspecting roof systems during the fall and spring to check for cracked or curling shingles and cleaning gutters filled with dead leaves and other debris. If you must inspect your roof system yourself, use a firmly braced or tied-off ladder equipped with rubber safety feet. Wear rubber-soled shoes and stay on the ladder (and off the roof system), if possible.

How long can I expect my roof system to last?
Most new roof systems are designed to provide useful service for about 20 years. Some roof system types, such as slate, clay tile, and certain metal (e.g., copper) systems, can last longer.

Actual roof system lifespan is determined by a number of factors, including local climatic and environmental conditions, proper building and roof system design, material quality and suitability, proper application and adequate roof maintenance.

Roofing product manufacturers offer a variety of warranties on their products. Take a close look at those warranties to see what responsibilities and financial obligations manufacturers will assume if their products fail to reach their expected lives.

What will a new roof system cost?
The price of a new roof system varies widely, depending on such things as the materials selected, contractor doing the work, home or building, location of the home or building, local labor rates and time of year. To get a good idea of price for your roof system, get three or four proposals from reputable contractors in your area. Keep in mind that price is only one factor, and it must be balanced with the quality of the materials and workmanship.

For each roofing material, there are different grades and corresponding prices. There also are a variety of styles and shapes. You need to look at the full product range and make a choice based on your budget and needs.

Within the roofing profession, there are different levels of expertise and craftsmanship. Insist on a contractor who is committed to quality work.

How can I determine my annual roofing cost?
When considering your roofing options, the following formula may help:

Annual Roofing Cost = Total Cost (Materials & Labor)/Life Expectancy of Roof System (in years)

What is a solar powered attic vent and what does it do?
A solar powered attic vent is an attic ventilation fan which runs solely off solar power. These ventilators fall into the category of active (powered) attic ventilation, where outside air is forced through the attic and out the vent to effectively cool the attic space. This method of attic ventilation is many times more effective than passive (natural) ventilation since the air inside the attic is exchanged more times per hour with a powered vent than with a passive vent.
Does my roof already have ventilation?
Static vents or ridge vents will help but generally do not provide sufficient air movement to pull heat and moisture from the attic – especially during the winter or when the ambient air is stagnant. If you have electric fans in the attic, you will benefit from increased air movement in the summer but at a cost of 350 to 400 watts of power per day! Often, electric attic fans have a thermostat that keep them inoperable during the winter, just when you need them to expel moisture! A solar powered attic fan runs whenever there is sunlight – and at no cost of operation.
What are the cost benefits of installing a solar attic fan?
How much money you will save is greatly dependent on the price of electricity in your area, the amount of attic space in your home, the efficiency of your attic insulation, and the amount of ventilation your solar attic vent is able to provide. In our experience, a typical installation will usually pay for itself in savings within 1-2 summers of use verses Powered Attic Fans that can cost up to $35 per month to operate.
Is a building permit required to install the Solar Powered Attic Fan?
To our knowledge, no permit is required.
Is additional wiring required?
No. There is no additional wiring or a need for an electrician to install the unit.
Can the solar powered attic fan be used to vent garages?
Yes it can! Many of our customers are using the fan to reduce the temperature in the garage or storage shed.
How is a solar attic fan controlled?
A thermal switch is often used to control a solar attic fan. This switch only allows the fan to run when the attic is warmer than 80-90 degrees F. Running the fan only when the attic is hot extends the life of the fan motor and results in less heat loss to the attic in winter, but does not allow the fan to reduce moisture build-up in the attic at all times and does not allow the fan to prevent ice dams during the winter.
Why would I want to cool off my attic?
During the summer, as the sun radiates heat onto your roof, your roof’s shingles or tiles become very hot. This heat is transferred through the roof and in turn heats up the air inside your attic. If the hot air stays inside your attic, the heat from this air will eventually enter your home. While attic insulation slows this process, it does not eliminate the heat transfer process entirely. If your attic is not very well insulated, it will do very little to stop the heat from getting through. Additionally, a hot attic stays hot long after the sun goes down, so the process of heat transfer into your home never really ends. By removing the hot air from your attic, the process of heat transfer into your home is minimized. The less attic heat that is transferred into your home, the less your air conditioner will need to work. If your air conditioner unit doesn’t need to run as much to keep your home cool, you save energy and money.
Are solar attic fans very loud when operating?
No, not at all. You can barely hear them running when you’re standing right next to one. The fan blades used in our solar attic vents are specially designed for whisper quiet operation.
How are ridge vents, turbine vents, or gable vents different from a solar attic vent?
Ridge vents, gables vents, and dormer vents work by passive (natural) draft air convection. This means that as hot air rises in your attic, it should flow out from these vents creating a natural draft through the attic. However, as you have probably noticed if you currently have any of these vents installed on your home, they are not very effective at reducing the temperature of your attic.

Turbine vents are designed to pull hot air out of your attic when the wind blows. These vents are equally ineffective at removing attic heat due to frequent mechanical problems, low air moving capability, and a dependence on the wind to supply the power needed to induce a draft through the attic.

Solar attic vents operate on the principle of active (forced) draft air convection. Our vents create an air draft through your attic many times more powerful than that of natural draft air convection techniques. By inducing a greater air daft through the attic, these solar attic vents can effectively cool your entire attic and keep it cool throughout the day.

Can my attic have too much ventilation?
The amount of ventilation an attic needs is determined by many factors, but in general, the more ventilation your attic has, the better off you will be. As attic air turnover is increased and fresh make-up air is brought into the attic, the attic temperature will begin to approach that of the ambient outside air temperature, which in turn minimizes heat transfer into your home. As long as your attic has plenty of fresh air make-up ventilation, more airflow through the attic will only increase the cooling performance of your solar attic fan.
Does a solar attic fan qualify for a federal tax credit?

Yes. Both the purchase price and installation cost of a solar attic fan qualify for a 30% federal tax credit. The credit applies to equipment placed in service between January 1, 2009 and December 31, 2016. IRS Form # 5695 (Download pdf here) is needed to apply for this credit. Enter the installed cost on line 1 of the form.

Outdoor Living FAQs

Coming Soon!